OBGT
Our Big Garden Trains and More

How to Tips
Honorable Ron Natinsky - Chief Engineer

I've been involved with model trains since my early childhood. Following are just some of the how to questions and tips that I can think of that should be of help to a garden railroader. If you have a question that you'd like an answer to please go to the Contact Us page and send me the question. Below are a series of tips that come to mind quickly. A caution, there is not an absolutely right or wrong way to do anything in Garden Railroading. Some people like one procedure and others like something else. Whatever works for you works.
Tip, How to layout the plan for your track
There are several ways to layout the plan for your track. First you need to determine which radius track you want to use. Some of this decision depends on how much available space you have and the other depends on the track you have. The bigger issue is how much space you have to use. The sectional track comes in various radii, let's call them 4 foot, 5 foot and 8 foot. The larger the radius you can use the better the trains will run and look. Some trains require a larger radius to even run. The same for locomotives, a 6 axle modern diesel probably won't run on a 4 ft radius even though the manufacturer says it will. At the other end of the spectrum, the little engines that come with a starter set will run on any radius track.
Tip, Don't forget about "grade"
Now before you start feeling good about having a great layout check the grade. Most locos with a train of cars will only go up a 2-3% grade. So how do I figure out the grade? The easiest way is to drive a stake into the ground at one corner of the proposed layout. Tie a string to the stake at what would be the top of the rail at that point. They make little plastic levels that slip onto the piece of string that you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes. Slip it onto the string at about the middle. Hold the string tight at the end of the string across the layout with the level showing level. You'll need some help with this but drive a second strake at the opposite corner and mark where the string crosses the stake. Then repeat this for the other 2 corners. Now get some more string and tie a piece to connect the 4 corners. Now you need a little math. Measure the rise or drop from corner to corner. Also measure the distance between the stakes. Make all measurements in inches or convert them. Now divide the rise or fall by the distance. This will give you a percentage number which is equal to the rise or fall of the proposed track. So what do you do with this number? If it falls with 2-3% you're a magician. If not, you need to probably start figuring out how to raise the lower point to get within 2-3%. This can be as easy a little dirt or as in the case of one of the tracks at TDG we used a flagstone ledge to raise it up and filled in the middle. A hint, the longer the trains the smaller the grade needs to be. A train like Thomas the Train which consists of only the engine and 2 very light cars can easily go up a larger grade. I'm not saying make it all level, the variations make the train look more real, just be careful what you engineer.
TIP, How to transfer that plan to your space on the ground
There are two methods that I like. One is to use a garden hose that you lay on the ground. With the aid of a tape measure lay the curves at a radius that you like. I say to use the largest radius you can fit into your space; you can figure out how fit the track to the layout later. The second method is to use PVC pipe, I suggest 1/2 inch. Using wooden stakes and tie wraps, fit the pipe along the imagined track layout. Drive the stakes on one side or the other and tie the pipe to the stakes. It doesn't have to be anything fancy, it's just to get the basic shape. The PVC pipe will take a gradual curve which is what you want. Either way, after you have the rough layout, get a can of orange marking paint (available at your local Home Depot or Lowes) and spray along the path. Caution, if you used your garden hose, try not to spray the hose.
Tip, Start laying the track
You can now get out that box of track and start laying it along the path that you just determined. That is if you have some track. Chances are that you won't have exactly what you need, so start figuring out what you need to fill in the gaps. This can be done with sectional track or flexible track. Sometimes the sectional works just perfectly and other times you'll need a unique bend or even a straight. If you need to cut a piece of track, I suggest a Dremel tool or small hack saw with a fine blade. It's hard to show you in words but the goal is the cut each rail as square as possible. Don't worry about the plastic ties, you can snip them out of the way later. The pieces don't have to be perfect, but the goal is to try. If you happen to need to make a cut in the middle area of a piece of track, you'll find that there is a small piece of brass that is crimped onto the track that holds the plastic ties in place. This makes the cutting of the rail a little harder, but it can be done.  When I see that I need to make that cut actually I use a small screwdriver and pry up one end of the metal piece and then use needle nose pliers to basically un-bend the piece until it comes loose. At that point the plastic pieces are loose so if you want to hold them just use a little G600 between the rail and the tie strip. And don't forget to allow for the type of rail connector you're going to use, either the metal or plastic insulator. For the metal you want the joint as close as possible. For the plastic insulator you need to  allow for the small plastic spacer.
Tips, rail joiners and/or rail insulators
OK, I'm prejudiced towards the "split-jaw" brand of rail connectors. I've used them for years and never had a problem with a rail joint making either an electrical or physical connection. There's something that just feels good about using a hex driver and tightening the stainless-steel metal screw into the brass rail joiner. The other choice is to use the factor LGB rail joiners that come attached when you buy track. They just slip together with each other and over the years that connection gets dirty and fails to keep good electrical conductivity. And yes, they do make a messy black electrical conduction grease, but my like is too short to mess with that. So, first step is to remove the existing rail joiner. I use a pair of needle nose pliers and bend the open end of the connector outward and then do the same with the other side. Then I bend the entire joiner downward to completely undo it from the brass rail. There's a little technique to it so I'll have to do a short video. The LGB track is Code 332 so I buy that size connector in Brass. Just slip the joiner over both ends of the rail and snug it up, good physical and electrical connection. If you need an insulated connection they do make plastic split-Jaw connectors but I use the yellow plastic LGB because I like to be able to identify where the insulated connection are located.
TIP, Connecting track power
TIP, Track power connections
Tip, Power supplies
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